7 Runway Moments that Helped Shape My Taste
Recontextualizing the past because yes. Irregularly scheduled and unsolicited of course.
Intricate/fancy intros aren't my thing, so here is "Shapings".
Starting off with a 3 (or 4) part series of core memories that shaped my taste and harmony with fashion.
The fashion dispatch is hefty, so I don’t plan to bring too many hot takes, or “should” and “should nots” (I am tired of the “things i hate” discourse), only my experience and what I’ve learned to this point. It’s healthy, long-form writing that we all need.
I'm from Houston (Alief), Texas - a large metropolitan city with a big heart, but narrow-minded view of expression (the usual diagnosis of small towns). So amassing these memories of how I got here even impressed me, but I am thankful for the butterfly effect that brought these together. If I were to pin when I fell in love with fashun and the different creative mediums to the exact summer: 2009, routinely dropped off by my mom at the 5-minute away Barnes & Nobles to "read a book". This thankfully allowed me to stumble upon the magazine and photography aisle. I don't remember which book exactly, maybe it was a bland, interior photography one, but I am thankful it was the first one I picked up. I was exposed to the fashion photos of Peter Lindbergh, Deborah Willis, and Annie Leibovitz. Seeing a simplistic photography book first is naturally why the minimalistic placement of garments took my heart from a very young age. More on this in part 2.
Also, I can't believe I am committing to the drawn-out paragraph of "this is what inspired this recipe" sin, but this is my gracious greeting, so please, take a seat and enjoy because this took time.
Starting off with the feminine, obvious one - the Kiera Knightly Green Dress in Atonement we all love
I am aware this is not a runway moment, but it is the dress that led me to care about evening wear1 .
I actually had not seen the movie until my 20s, but I did always see so many beautiful gowns inspired by it, including Dolce & Gabbana and Nensi. Seeing this dress helped grow my appreciation for Alaia, Elie Saab, Ferragamo, Valentino, and so much more. Award-season gowns were my first introduction to elegant fashion, and I will forever pay homage to it. It's a classic, award-season dress, or "I bust the windows out [his] car" dress. Either cup you drink from when imagining it is drama and tension-filled.
Details I love: The director wanted the dress to evoke the hottest day of the summer. Which if you think about how the dress fits, it wears like it’s sticking to her skin with sweat in the best way possible. It’s sheer genius that is costume designer, Jacqueline Durran. I actually couldn’t stop crying at the end of the movie, so I remember no other looks but this dress. The forever flowing, slow fanning skirt, semi v-lined open back that stops right where it needs to, opulent, almost reflective jewel tone, and dramatic hip drapery really set the tone for me. The dress that pops up when you look up effortless in the dictionary.
Jil Sander
My praise for Jil Sander comes from her editorial shots, which drew me to her runway. No, she is not my number one minimalist brand, but she definitely opened the doors. Yes, she is very well known through the fashion discourse, but for a very good reason. Her success took some time, and didn't really start till the late 80s, but she's one of the first. She's one of the quintessential foundational macronutrients in design that inspired me, and so many designers moving forward. I am not sure if I would love Tibi, Khaite, Calvin Klein (Raf Simmons 205W39), Lemaire, Toteme, Old Celine, MaxMara, Studio Nicholson, Hermes, and yes, the Row, if it weren't for her courageous and enduring influence pioneering through the industry. The look I am referring to from Jil is Look 3 from F/W RTW 2019.
Details I love: This one is coupled with several other looks from other collections. Tailored movement within a garment and subtle accessorizing captivated me. Not sure where, or how, but it did. She is better at her clothes than accessories, and as a girl who initially grew up liking clothes and shoes before bags, this was exactly what I wanted to see (now I only care about shoes and bags). The neutral tones of the collection were very soothing, as I was graduating college at the time, and had a very chaotic life. It was also the time minimalism was at its flow.
I like space in my shorts, as seen in her more recent collections. She does it here very well paying attention to flow and just the right amount of stiffness. It's fabulous, and I would wear it every day. Nothing daring or monumental, but stable, and a little edgier with the snake-print and fringe.
Alexander McQueen in CDG
Skipping ahead to when my inspiration graduated in style a bit. A little background is needed to explain my arrival here.
My love for Japanese street style started early, but never knew how to approach it. My style when I was 14-21 leaned tomboy or very girlie chic. Think 2010s McQueen, Old Celine, Chloe, Dior, Marc Jacobs, and Chanel. But my heart always leaned to clean-cut draping or edgy goth, maybe hinting towards my still slumbered emo phase.
There are a few subtypes to Japanese fashion, and just like he explained, the ones I am most familiar with are Americana (cuffed baggy jeans, leather jacket), Karasu-soku (tiered fabrics, zippers, rips, mostly black), streetwear/sportswear (self-explanatory), and avant-garde. I saw the video featuring McQueen from a YouTube review years ago, knowing I loved McQueen, but not necessarily knowing what Comme Des Garcons (CDG) was at the time. I saw the runway and moved on, but the memory was still there. Years later I found out that its aura was created by the amazing artistry and unexpected symmetry that is Rei from CDG, which brought an appreciation for Lemaire, Issey, Iris, Yohji, Rick, Sacai, and so many others. I remember this video, not for the garment itself, but for the gratitude to McQueen for adding the petal to my budding flower that is avant-garde fashion.
Details I love: McQueens' look is functional, muted, and simple. Different from his designs (he walked because he was a huge fan of Rei's work). Nothing too crazy to boast about but the focus is the theme. Maxi skirts, wool coats, tailored oversized shirts, sneakers, tabis, high socks, floor-length coats, etc. In the next newsletter, I will talk about how anime has also influenced my taste when I turned 21 and started watching.
Balenciaga Spring 2008 and Fall 2011
Now to get to the gritty layers that inspired me as I got older. I would not say the looks mentioned are anything near how I dress, but it's definitely opened my eyes to the different depths you can take it. Meaning how you can take it beyond the top, bottom, jacket, and shoe. There is certainly two different Balenciaga's as far as history goes (Ghesquiere or Demna's). The old with exceptional designs, bold pieces, out of the box approach, and dark advertising, to now mostly being a spectacle or deeper message, which is the intention. I still very much like the current Balenciaga. At least most of the time.
Details I love: Spring 2008 → hard bubble shape, but not too big. First I've seen of that at the time. Fall 2011 → also the first time I'd seen someone take a blouse to the next step. Not just by making it oversized, or focused on creating a silhouette (like minimalist brands), but by adding punchy character without being too obvious. Made me think I guess.
Margiela, The Hermes Years (Spring RTW 2001)
We all love these years not just for the hype but because it's good. I will continue to look at these Pinterest images till my eyes bleed. Margiela’s a disruptor in deconstruction and avant-garde designs. They were classic/timeless, and tame in comparison to his own brand. These were so different from his own brand, and it's fascinating to see how a creative director created a bold, refreshing approach at a different house. It honestly made me happy, to see someone throw strict rules of personal style in the trash, and invent in the best decade for fashion (the 90's idc idc)
Details I love: Look 25 Spring 2000 RTW. The epitome of the banned Quiet Luxury term, before Quiet Luxury came to the zeitgeist. Seeing someone who looked like me, dressed how I wanted to dress, and was shot how I would like to be captured stopped me in my tracks. The necklace, spacious tailoring, and the minimal makeup.
Glenn Martens Y/Project and Simone Rocha
Both are brilliant minds, and I am grateful to witness their work at the same time. Maybe it’s the fact that they both collaborated with JPG. Or maybe they just simply get me excited about fashion. These two are a great example of things I probably wouldn’t wear, or not really sure if it’s fully my style, but I have a deep appreciation for their approach. It’s a fun line for reinvention, like Nicole Kidman. I personally am not a Diesel girl, and wouldn’t wear it myself, but I am an audience member and cheerleader for most things Glenn. As with Simone Rocha.
Simone is cool, and to put it short, I think I am in love with her. She’s been able to crossover different genres. Every collection she puts out is adorable, sexy, and creates unconventional work. However, I also don’t see myself in too many of her designs.
Details I love: His design codes through a contemporary lens. “War on symmetry” to be exact. Her mature takes on what I like to think is an acquired taste. Never a 10/10, but exactly what I want to see moving forward.
Schiaparelli
Why not end on a big one? Although not all his collections are a homerun (bold of me to say, mainly because Galliano exists), they still go way further than many other collections combined. He blurs the lines between fashion and art, successfully and tastefully without it being a spectacle. His collections scream budget in the best way possible. Daniel Roseberry continuously pays homage to Elsa Schiaparelli while reinventing what fashion is today without using too much AI. The most common phrase I hear to describe it is “I have no words”, and it is the only time I feel that phrase is justified. His work is the final boss, what I hope to secretly collect and have, to put in my own museum. Some say he was inspired by McQueen, idk, it’s a political conversation I don’t want to have, but maybe to understand a bit better.
Details I love: I like it all. "Did someone say robot but make em babays?!" I am showing the looks I would specifically wear. My daytime look is Look 6 Spring 2024 with the satin cargo shorts, and a tailored tank top, or Look 4 Fall 2024 with the vest corset and cowboy boots. Evening wear dress to my favorite Thai elevated dining experience with the best basil fried rice would be Look 26 Spring 2024, and my outfit to your daughter’s ballet recital would be Look 31 from Fall 2024.
Honorary Mentions
Miu Miu Spring 1996, of course (with Mama Miuccia/Prada as an appreciation)
If I were to pick a specific moment, it would be when Miu Miu chose Hailee Steinfeld as the face of the brand.
Prada will be on everyone’s list. If I had to choose: Prada Spring 2013 and anything on Hunter Schaeffer.
The best quote I’ve ever heard about Prada and Miu Miu is that they have REAL ideas about modern dressing. They manage to be provocative, subversive, emotional, directional, and commercial. Being that she would probably be talked about in most newsletters, I want to keep it brief here.
Maximilian Davis of Ferragamo (Fall 2023)
The answer to my prayers for when I say I would wear Max Mara, Ralph Lauren, and Jacquemeus but don’t know how. I want every bag and shoe he produces. Maximilian puts it all together on a plate and I eat it up. Is it perfect to me? No. But it’s what I want right now.
She wears pieces straight from the runway, and she is known for it, so she of course had to be mentioned. I am choosing her over Anya Taylor Joy, Jessica Chastain, and Taylor Russell. I love her off-duty fashion as well (mainly because I love a model off duty look like I love my Tate’s, simple, cute, and a quick bite into their other side). There’s so many iconic pieces that she’s worn straight off the runway (Tom Ford, Valentino, etc), but I would like to shed light on her Louis Vuitton look. It was her opening look to the Dune press tour, and honestly her way of adding light pressure. It’s a look I would wear today. Edgy tailoring always wins in my eyes.
Well, this has been fun. Thank you for reading. This is just the beginning! I will be talking about celebrity moments that shaped me next. LET’S HAVE A BALL DOWN MEMORY LANE!
Before social media-zation of references came about. That moment my 15-year-old adolescence turned up the fashion love valve to award season dresses. This was my Audrey Hepburn LBD Breakfast at Tiffany's moment. At the time, I was obsessed with Avril Lavigne and Abercrombie and was craving a pivot. So I am thankful for the random Vogue magazine page featuring Keira that brought me to the dress, and out of inner city mall fashion.
Love this!!! 🥰